The dominant red wine grape of Burgundy, Pinot Noir is now adopted and adored in wine regions all over the world. The variety's elusive charm has carried it to all manner of vineyards around the world and as of 2016, it was the sixth most-planted grape variety.
Last updated 09-Jul-2024
Burgundian Pinot Noir ready to harvest | ©Domaine Guyon
As a thin-skinned grape variety, Pinot Noir generally has a moderate to high acidity, a low level of phenolic compounds, low to moderate levels of soft tannins and is generally paler in color than most other red wines.
Red wines range from a pale pinkish red through to the darker tones which an interior designer might recognize as Burgundy. Color and body do not necessarily intensify as price and/or quality rises, and even the deepest examples tend to have an appealing translucence and minimal opacity in the wine's core. See below for rosé.
Wine novices can often find it hard to reconcile these aspects of "lightness" with the prices at which Pinot Noir wines are usually sold. Lovers of the grape focus on its aromatic, flavor and textural qualities.
The essence of Pinot Noir wine is its aroma of red berries and cherry (fresh red cherries in lighter wines and stewed black cherries in weightier examples). Many of the more complex examples show hints of forest floor. Well-built Pinot Noirs, particularly from warmer harvests, suggest leather and violets, sometimes recalling Syrah.
There are two theories regarding the Pinot name. One is that it came about because their bunches are similar in shape to a pinecone (pinot in French). It may derive, however, from a place name in France such as Pinos or Pignols. Pignols in the Auvergne has cultivated Pinot since the middle ages.
It is thought that Pinot Noir has its origins in the northeast of France or the southwest of Germany. Genetically speaking, it is only a few generations removed from the wild vines that naturally grow in those areas.
These extend from western Germany (as Spätburgunder) and northern Italy to Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and the USA.
California, Oregon and New Zealand are arguably the greatest centers for the grape outside its home territory. High volumes are also produced in the Yarra Valley, Marlborough, Central Otago, Willamette Valley, Casablanca and San Antonio subregions.
Pinot Noir wines from these regions
Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, USA
$88
91 / 100
Occidental-Kistler Vineyards 'Occidental Station Vineyard' Pinot Noir
California, USA
$176
95 / 100
Martin Woods Jessie James Vineyard Pinot Noir
Eola-Amity Hills, USA
$56
92 / 100
It was previously believed that Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Précoce (Frühburgunder) et al were members of a "Pinot Family" of distinct grape varieties. But DNA profiling has shown them to share the same genetic fingerprint, and thus to be mutations or clones of a common variety.
Evidence can be seen in the vineyard; often Pinot vines bear bunches of fruit of varying colors, or even striped berries. Further, there are over 40 clones classified under the Pinot Noir name by ENTRAV-INRA, the French government agency.
Pinot's clonal diversity and tendency to mutate is linked to its age – it is believed to have existed for 2000 years. Pinot is also an ancestor of a huge number of grape varieties known today. Together with the venerable, but largely forgotten Gouais Blanc it is a parent of grape varieties including Gamay Noir, Aligoté and Pinot Noir's white-wine counterpart, Chardonnay.
Pinot Noir is the patriarch of the Pinot grape varieties. The shorthand "Pinot" is usually understood as Pinot Noir in general use.
Pinot Noir causes more discussion and dispute than any other grape, most of which centers around finding and describing the variety's "true" expression. Examples from Santenay are undeniably different from those made on the other side of the world in Central Otago. At the same time they are all unmistakably, unquestionably Pinot Noir.
It takes a great deal of care and skill to make Pinot Noir perform. The results vary wildly from watery, acidic candy water to some of the richest, most intensely perfumed wines on Earth. This elusive perfection has earned the variety obsessive adoration from wine lovers all over the world.
In Burgundy (Pinot Noir's homeland), the traditional vignerons focuses more on soil and climate than on the qualities of the grape variety itself (this is, after all, the home of terroir). Even very subtle differences in terroir are reflected in Pinot Noir wines made there. There are clear and consistent differences between the wines of Volnay and Pommard, for example, even though the villages are separated by just one mile.
Pinot Noir wines from the Volnay and Pommard regions
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Clos des Ducs
Volnay Premier Cru, France
$318
93 / 100
Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu
Volnay Premier Cru, France
$177
92 / 100
Comte Armand Clos des Epeneaux Monopole
Pommard Premier Cru, France
$180
93 / 100
The effects of terroir aren't limited to Burgundy. Many winemakers in the New World attempt to emulate the Burgundy style. Nevertheless, the newer Pinot Noir regions in Oregon, Washington, California and New Zealand offer numerous expressions and interpretations of the variety.
There are many choices to be made in Pinot Noir production, and these are a source of contention among winemakers. This starts with the planting of a new vineyard.
Choice of clones to match rootstocks, soil and other growing conditions while maximizing quality (usually more important than yield in this case) is a complex task. There is not just debate over which clones are best, but also over whether using multiple of clones adds complexity to wines.
In order to retain as much Pinot character as possible, many producers have turned to organic and/or biodynamic viticulture. They seek to avoid the use of commercial fertilizers that may disrupt the variety's sensitive chemical balance.
Most typically the Pinot noir grape is fermented in small open top vats, employing punch downs to keep the cap of skins in contact with the juice. This allows the cellar team plenty of opportunities to inspect the ferment.
At harvest time, the winemaker must choose whether to ferment berries only, include some stems, or ferment intact bunches. Whole bunch ferments in such vats are not kept in a carbon dioxide atmosphere. Furthermore the fruit is partially or completely crushed by punchdowns.
Therefore carbonic maceration is minimal, though similar enzymatic processes are thought to occur, affecting the wine's aroma. Higher concentrations of tannin can also result; care is needed to retain balance. Green unripe stems are avoided. Some winemakers use stem contact in every vintage, others only when fruit tannins seem underpowered.
Length and temperature of fermentation is often debated. Cooler temperatures lead to fresher fruit flavors. Longer, warmer fermentations and pigeage result in more extracted wines with greater tannic structure.
It is also quite common to use a cold maceration before the alcoholic one. The standard thinking is that this draws out color and aromatics without extracting tannins. Some producers use dry ice to cool down the berries and burst some of them for color extractions. Care has to be taken against wild yeasts and other spoilage organisms which enjoy cooler conditions.
Destemming machine and manual punchdown of the Pinot Noir cap in an open top fermenter at Thousand Candles, Yarra Valley | ©Rick Liston / Thousand Candles
The question of oak in Pinot Noir winemaking is also a thorny one. How long, percentages of new wood, and barrel size are all important and often debated variables. The use of tighter-grained French oak in preference to American is not disputed.
Although Pinot Noir earns most of its fame from its still, red, varietal wines, the variety is also a vital ingredient in the production of many sparkling white wines. It accounts for about 38-percent of all Champagne vineyards, with Pinot Meunier at around 32-percent followed by Chardonnay with 30-percent.
Alone it is used to produce a blanc de noirs. Such wines tend to be richer and more full bodied than those made entirely or predominantly from the other Champagne varieties. Tasting notes often mention red and black fruits.
Bollinger 'La Cote Aux Enfants' Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru
Champagne, France
$1,330
93 / 100
Andre Chemin Premier Cru Tradition Brut
Champagne, France
$35
97 / 100
R. Pouillon & Fils Chemin du Bois Methode Fabrice Pouillon
Champagne, France
$277
92 / 100
That being said, Pinot Noir more often forms part of multi-variety blends. Its most common partner is its cousin Chardonnay, but other members of the Pinot family often play a role. Pinot Meunier is most common in Champagne while Pinot Blanc is more common Franciacorta. Pinot Grigio is also permitted (usually in smaller percentages) in various Italian sparkling wines including Pinot Nero.
The highly successful Pinot – Chardonnay sparkling wine blend has been adopted by regions all around the world. This includes the major production zones of Europe, the Americas, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.
Of course, Pinot Noir must be a component of rosé Champagne. Traditionally red wine is blended into the assemblage of white wines (often around 15-percent). Increasingly a saigné (bled) rosé base wine is made, running the juice off the Pinot Noir skins after a brief maceration which provides some color but minimal tannins. These occasionally have Chardonnay blended into them to produce very pale examples.
Popular throughout California, the high acidity and fruit-forward characteristics of Pinot Noir make it a fantastic option for the production of lean and dry rosé. Other notable regions include Marlborough of New Zealand and the Yarra Valley of Australia.
Richmond Plains Blanc de Noir Rose
Nelson, New Zealand
$17
88 / 100
Marlborough, New Zealand
$12
89 / 100
Yarra Valley, Australia
$45
86 / 100
The flavor compounds and depth of color present in a Pinot Noir rosé will vary greatly depending on the amount of skin contact that occurs in the winery. However, many are in the ballpark of salmon pink. Occasionally, some residual sugar will be present but dry styles are much more common.
Still white wines made entirely from Pinot Noir are rare but do exist. They tend to be rich and robust, even when tannic extraction is kept to a minimum. Unsurprisingly they can show similarities to heavier examples of Pinot Gris, but with less aromatic intensity.
Pinot Noir is authorized as a (usually minor) component for many Italian still white wines. This often occurs in areas where the grape is grown for sparkling wine. Often Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc are also grown in these zones.
Aside from the combinations mentioned above in the sparkling wine section, several wine regions commonly blend Pinot Noir with other varieties:
Sometimes, single-variety Pinot Noirs may include a proportion of another grape such as Malbec or Syrah to add color and body. In European appellations up to 15 percent is allowed; the figure rises to 25 percent in the USA.
Lower in tannins and higher in acidity, the wines often suit cooler serving temperatures, or even a little chilling, perhaps to a "cellar" figure around 14°C (57°F). Their aromatics, and low likelihood of throwing heavy sediment means decanting is seldom needed.
Many Pinot Noir enthusiasts have dedicated glassware. Glasses designated for Pinot Noir offer high volumes, not for generous pours, but to all aromas to develop and then be focused by a narrower opening.
Beyond this, nuances in design include rounder and more angular designs. The glasses below are designed by Riedel for boldly fruity New World wines; while their Burgundy Grand Cru glass is a wide tulip with less taper.
Riedel's Veloce Pinot Noir stemmed glasses | ©Riedel
Pinot Noir is a very versatile wine thanks to the relatively low tannins and high acidity. Generally speaking, it pairs well with breadth of flavors and food groups but as a delicate wine, lighter dishes are preferred.
Light, fruit-forward expressions pair well with chicken and fatty seafood such as salmon. The high acidity will match well with creamy pasta dishes and cheeses with earthy components, such as aged camembert or brie.
More robust, tannic expressions such as that of Burgundy are more suited to lamb, duck or other game birds as well as rustic vegetable dishes. Pinot Noir is often a recommended pairing with Christmas dinner.
Pinot Noir is the perfect partner for roast duck breast, and should cope with the red cabbage lurking in the background | ©BarbaraGoreckaPhotography / www.shutterstock.com